Monday, September 29, 2014

Centaurée B&W



Here's my first take on the Deer & Doe Centaurée dress. I fell in love with this pattern as soon as I saw it, and originally tried to follow the sew-along that Deer & Doe hosted, but as usual I didn't actually end up finishing it by the deadline.

I envisioned this dress as something to be worn to a summer musical festival. After not being too interested  music shows for the last few years, this summer I was excited to be going to the Toronto Urban Roots Festival to see Man Man, Neutral Milk Hotel, and my personal High School idol Jenny Lewis.

Well, the dress wasn't done in time and I had to make due with a different sundress, but I still wanted to finish the dress! It's a bit of a statement for everyday wear, but sometimes being overdressed is worth it. I wore it out this weekend with a slip, tights and boots which worked nicely so I think I won't be packing this one away with my other sundresses :)

Centaurée bodice

Pattern Notes:

Although design wise Deer&Doe is one of my favourite indie pattern companies, with my boyish frame I'm pretty much the opposite of the hourglass figure they are designed for.  I made my muslin up in 38B 40W 38H. From there I then had to make a SBA of about 1cm, which was pretty easy using the sew-along instructions. I then took in the side seams by about 2cm. I also altered the back high-lo to be 2 inches shorter at the back. (Note on the switching back and forth between metric and imperial... I actually do that a lot when sewing. I think it might be a Canadian thing as we're technically a metric country but since most of our media comes from the US imperial is used a lot too. I tend to use metric for small changes and imperial for larger ones. My sewing machine seam allowance marks on the throat plate are in imperial as well).


Sewing & Fabric Notes:

Both fabrics are from Fabric By Designer on Queen street in Toronto. Both are light drapey rayon. The white print is quite sheer so the dress is fully lined with white rayon. I only had a couple of issues with construction.
First was the side invisible zip which is not so invisible really. I tend to do a good job on my back centred  invisible zips but my side zips are often a mess. All I can think of to maybe fix that would to interface the seam allowance in my next version, a step I generally skip. Any other side zip tips would be appreciated. I don't think it's that bad really, but I might not wear it around another sewist I was trying to impress :)
My other issue was with my self made bias binding. Even with my clover bias binding tool I hate making bias binding. HATE IT. Which I should work on I guess because it looks nice. I used this method and it turned out ok, but was a little uneven in some places.

Other upcoming projects are (hopefully): a Gertie Shirtwaist dress for a friend that I have been taking forever to finish and a Cat lady Datura. So until then happy sewing!

Thursday, September 18, 2014

Gertie's Book for Better Sewing Shirtwaist Dress - Round One


Gertie's book for better sewing shirtwaist dress


Taking pictures remains my least favourite part of the sewing blog thing. Love reading them, love writing them, love sewing - hate being in front of the camera. I took like 20 shots with my auto-timer and ended up with two. But that's ok! I can still share my thoughts about this pattern and a few construction details!

Gertie's book for better sewing shirtwaist dress


Pattern Notes:

This is the Shirtwaist Dress from Gertie's Book for Better Sewing. This is on the third project I've tried from the book, and yesterday I just received Gertie Sews Vintage Casual. So many things from these two books that I want to make! This was a wearable muslin, so no changes except that I left the sleeves off. I just wasn't feeling the puff sleeves in my fabric (Edited to add I also shorted the dress by about 4 inches to make it mini instead of tea length). I made a bust 2 waist and hips 4, and honestly maybe should have gone up a size at the waist. It's very comfy because of the back shirring, but pulls forward at the side seams a bit.

I did have a few issues with the pattern. The collar fit is off on me in that the back collar piece sits so far back that you can't really see it from the front. Also the front facing at the collar has a tendency to pop out, a flaw I think might be an easy fix by just making the facing about an inch wider. The last issue I have with the pattern is that there seems to be some excess fabric around the shoulder area. I'm currently making a version for a friend and my muslin for her had that issue as well.

Positives for this pattern: It's extremely comfy, as I mentioned before! I really like that the shirring allows for a more vintage fitted silhouette but with lots of ease around the waist. Very nice to everyday dressing. This is one of the most comfortable dresses I have, so despite the minor fit issues it gets worn a lot. Like weekly. The cheap poly I used is actually starting to pill a little from how much I wear it! Second bonus: My boyfriend really likes it :) It's kind of silly but I was less than impressed with the dress when I finished it until he said "what a cute dress!" which caused my to change my opinion pretty fast... What can I say? It was a good complement.

I actually sewed a reasonable amount this summer so hopefully I can catch up on some more posts now that fall has begun to set in in Toronto. We shall see. As always thanks for checking out my post!  


Sunday, September 7, 2014

Liebster Award

Back in April (!!) I was nominated for a liebster award by the talented Sally Bee Makes. I'm great at putting things off so I'm only getting around to doing it now. Thanks again Sally!

How this works:
1. Thank the blogger who nominated you
2. Answer the 11 questions given to you
3. Nominate 11 other followers with less than 500 followers
4. Post 11 questions for your nominees to answer
5. Tag your nominees and post a comment on their blog to let them know you nominated them


1. Why did you start blogging?
 I find the combination of personal style and crafting skill shown by sewing bloggers very inspiring and wanted to be part of the community.
2. How do you get yourself out of a sewing funk?
I don't really have a tried and true method for that!
3. If you could live anywhere in the world, where would it be and why?
I love where I live (Toronto Canada) but I've always wanted to live abroad in Japan. I'm really interested in the culture, plus the country is pretty much the holy mecca of craft supplies and fabric.
4. Sewing for other people: love it or loathe it?
I kind of like it. Sewing for other people was one of the challenges I set for myself this year. The project I'm working on right now is a dress for a friend and I'm a little bit nervous!
5. What is your best feature?
Probably my eyes. 
6. If you had an infinite amount of money that would disappear after one day, how would you spend that day?
Paying off my friends and mine student debts, flying my family in from British Columbia (1st class because we're talking magical money here!) and then taking all my friends and family out for an awesome time at Guu Izakaya.
7. What is your favourite fabric shop?
I really like Fabric by Designer on Queen St in Toronto, it has a nice selection of garment fabrics and is well organized. I also like King Textiles on Spadina for the size of the selection and good prices. My most frequented online fabric store is Miss Matatabi for gorgeous Japanese fabrics.
8. What is your biggest sewing sin?
Not always lining up my fabrics selvage to selvage to check if the grainline is straight. 
9. If you could make any sewing process disappear, what would it be?
checking grainlines, haha!
10. Which other crafts, if any, do you do?
I like to knit, but mostly only on long car rides or in front of the tv.
11. Cats or dogs?



1. Why did you start blogging?
2. How do you get yourself out of a sewing funk?
3. If you could live anywhere in the world, where would it be and why?
4. Sewing for other people: love it or loathe it?
5. What is your best feature?
6. If you had an infinite amount of money that would disappear after one day, how would you spend that day?
7. What is your favourite fabric shop?
8. What is your biggest sewing sin?
9. If you could make any sewing process disappear, what would it be?
10. Which other crafts, if any, do you do?
11. Cats or dogs?

I nominate:

Irma 

Bonus to take me to 11:
Her blog is in French but Viedomestique is lovely with great eye candy, she posts on Burdastyle as as aalaberge.

Also! I used bloglovin followers to determine eligibility, even though I actually use Feedly to follow most blogs. If you want me follow you on bloglovin for the numbers I would be more than happy to.

Hope everyone has fun with the questions!